One year ago we were in Istanbul. The trip was unforgettable not only because it was a fascinating cultural experience and celebration of a
milestone anniversary, but also because we almost didn't make it across the border and I almost didn't make it back. It was the first time in a few years that we managed to plan a vacation in advance. We found a great deal on a dreamy, Bosphorus-front boutique hotel. We researched guidebooks and Turkish phrasebooks. I made arrangements with the housesitter. In the weeks prior, I made note after mental note to get the passports ready but kept getting busy with work and plans. I finally pulled out the passports the night before the flight and Stan checked them.
f l i g h t - c h a s i n g
I had to renew my passport months before a milestone birthday. We weren't even married the last time Stan renewed his. Passport renewal was so far from being on the brain, it might as well have been in Istanbul, which is where our brains were waiting. Oh yes, we discovered the night before our afternoon flight that his passport was expired. I engaged the life force of the universe to master the inner panic storm brewing. After brainstorming scenarios involving postponed reservations and change fees and making all kinds of phone calls and emails (thanks to friends for weathering the insanity), we took the only available appointment time with the passport agency in DC which was then in 30 minutes. Imagine driving into the city during morning rush hour. It's no leisurely 30 minute drive.
Stan waited at the agency until the next opening an hour later, while I battled traffic back home to repack, shower, and care for the dog, then cab to the airport and wait by the check-in counter in hopes of a miracle. I can sense my lady readers cringing at the thought of repacking for a 10-day international vacation in order to make the flight with only carry-on bags. A passport agent with a good imagination (a fairy godmother) lectured Stan and said it will be at least an hour before the new passport is ready if she can expedite it at all. He spent this time volunteering as translator for other agency visitors. Magic fairy agent noticed this good deed and issued the new passport just in time for him to cab to the airport. A friend of Stan's kindly called the hotel to make sure our reservations were intact and told me that Stan should be on his Sunday-best behavior. We checked-in and boarded. We were in our seats and could not believe we pulled off the normally impossible. As the adrenaline of victory began to fade and exhaustion began to settle, the life force flickered. Stan was surprised that I was slightly out of sorts. In fairness, Stan's plate is always full, as is mine, and, in the end, the stars aligned to help him make the trip happen. I have to give him credit for taking the seemingly impossible head-on. I quenched the flares and looked forward to an exotic adventure in mysterious lands.
Ajia hotel, a converted palace on the Bosphorus; Princes Islands, Sea of Marmara
t h e w r o n g k i n d o f s o u v e n i r
We planned on enjoying Turkish baths the evening before our flight back. It was a smart plan - cleanse and relax before a long journey, pampering in the way of the ancients. As we made our way to our bath house of choice, I started feeling really tired. That should have been the first red flag. I usually wear my fatigue like a badge of honor after a week of adventurous city trekking. Stan was pretty understanding and recommended returning to enjoy a nice dinner at the hotel's well-rated restaurant. We took the ferry to the hotel and two of the tell-tale Furies, Shivers and Back-ache, came along for the ride. By the time we were back in our room, I had periscope vision, with an eye only for the comfort of a warm bed, forgetting all notions of fine dining.
I awoke the next morning somewhat human but with a slightly nauseating headache. We went to the airport and I had no problem standing in check-in and security queues. I was met at our gate by the two Furies and their third sister, Vertigo. We turned a row of seats into a makeshift cot and Stan brought a gate attendant who asked me if I felt well enough to travel. Our bags were checked, the house/dog sitter was going off duty, and we were a ferry and two cab rides away from the hotel. Who knows what else could have happened had I responded "no". I said I would be fine if I could rest and get some Tylenol. She kindly brought water, but instead of allowing me to be among the first to board, the other gate attendants expected me to wait in line and were actually angry that I was slow and a little confused. A few hours and several requests post-take-off, I finally received my meds.
The mess of a gate at Laguardia, where the only seat available was a patch of floor, almost made me long for the transatlantic flight I spent with my head on Stan's lap because there was no room to bend forward. Lowering my head was all I could do to keep from introducing my fellow passengers to my breakfast. Fortunately, my bout of food poisoning waited until we were safely home before surfacing in all its glory.
Istanbul was worth the before & after insanity.
I s t a n b u l i s C o n s t a n t i n o p l e ... & n o t
A trip to Istanbul is a true voyage, a cosmopolitan adventure best described as a continuous surprise. The juxtaposition between very old tradition, romantic neoclassicism and the fresh and modern is most striking. The city itself is organized into fairly distinct old, new, commercial and residential districts. On the Golden Horn, you see mosques in every direction, spice markets, most women in hijabs, some women in niqabs, and men who... double-take at those lacking either. Cross the Straits of Bosphorus for neoclassical buildings, sleek minimalist nightclubs, boutiques and office buildings, designer shopping centers and French cafés. Here you will see thoroughly modern women dressed in the latest designer threads and men who seem to not give that a second thought. For a calmer pace, take a ferry to the residential Asian side.
Taksim shopping & dining district
The last thing I expected was to find an exhibit of Colombian art. The
Pera Müzei, a beautiful building in Beyoğlu, hosted a charming exhibit of Fernando Botero's work. This museum's permanent exhibits include a lovely collection of Turkish Impressionist art. Also: tile from Topkapi Palace.
You can easily get lost in the
Grand Bazaar. It is a veritable maze of tightly packed shops offering everything from artisanal tile, ceramics, jewelry and rugs. Tip - bring along your savviest negotiating skills, otherwise pay twice the price available outside the market. Also: window from Topkapi Palace.
A performance by
Whirling Dervishes is mesmerizing and soothing. I can barely do one pirouette without stumbling. How do they endlessly spin in unison?
I was fascinated by the juxtaposition of this modern large-scale sculpture placed in the heart of old Istanbul. Matthew Ritchie and Aranda Lasch created it from 17 tons of black coated aluminum. Standing 8 meters high by 20 meters long, this installation explores themes of architecture, music and physics.
The intricate detail inside the
Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii) is breathtaking.
The
Topkapi Palace is expansive enough to require a full day's exploration. Serving as the official residence of Ottoman sultans for over four centuries, each expansion in this complex reflects the architectural style and political movements of its time.
Hagia Sophia (1, 4 clockwise), once a church, later a mosque and now a museum, is remarkable as a monument to both Byzantine and Ottoman cultures, Christian and Muslim religions. Also: ring by Sevan Biçakçi, who sculpts regal scenes under domes of semi-precious stones; walkway at Topkapi Palace; door at Blue Mosque, reminiscent of window shutters at Topkapi Palace.
My favorite historic site was Kariye Müzei (
Chora Church). This mystical, spiritual place, housing luminescent
mosaics, striking frescoes and other elements from its days as a Byzantine church and Ottoman mosque, offers a sweet discovery around every corner. Scholars articulate its charm perfectly: "Kariye seems to lack an overall logic and appears as an incongruous juxtaposition of components." Outside the original city walls and softened by trees, this site feels like a respite from the chaos of the old city center. Its location offers another one-of-a-kind experience:
Asitane Restaurant (keep reading to discover what makes it so special).
The foodie scene in Istanbul is more than beef kebabs and turkish delight. (Speaking of turkish delight, I still dream of
Divan's fluffy and lightly aromatic rosewater confection based on a classic recipe and presented in modern geometric packaging.) The gastronomical experience is as eclectic and sophisticated as this mysterious city, which celebrates both the ancient and the strikingly modern.
Taksim, a shopping mecca for the young and the trendy, has a bistro for every craving, from Thai to Russian. Neighboring Ortaköy, the night-life district, boasts seafood establishments with spectacular Bosphorus views. Retail therapy and club-hopping, however, are no match for this area's true hidden gems: fried oyster kebabs and Belgian waffles. Tucked into table-filled lanes, unassuming cafes serve freshly-picked oysters deep-fried to fluffy, non-greasy perfection. County fair-esque stands offer made-to-order waffles with an inspired selection of accoutrements, from Nutella to fresh figs and kiwi. The result is anything but ordinary breakfast fare. Meanwhile, Asitane Restaurant treats its patrons like royalty with authentic imperial Ottoman cuisine. Experience its intriguing, aromatic dishes in Asitane's tree-lined courtyard overlooking Byzantine Chora Church.
This cultural mecca has a gem for everyone: historic sites, spiritual places, modern art, boutique hotels, fantastic shopping, artisanal wares, modern fashion districts, street eats à la Anthony Bourdain, and food fit for a sultan... or a queen.
l i v e e x u b e r a n t l y™
photos ©Natalie S @ Calliope: Istanbul skyline, Pera Art Museum, glass Turkish lanterns, Topkapi Turkish stained glass window, modern black outdoor sculpture Istanbul, Topkapi Palace tiled building gilded ceiling, Hagia Sophia yellow frescoe ceiling columns, Topkapi mosaic stone walkway, Hagia Sophia dome interior, carved wood door Blue Mosque
photos ©Stan S @ Calliope: outdoor dining terrace Istanbul Bosphorus hotel Ajia, sea gulls over Sea of Marmara Princes Islands Istanbul, street scene Istanbul shopping district Taksim, Botero exhibit Pera Museum, Whirling Dervishes, Blue Mosque, Jesus terracotta wine jugs mosaic Chora Church
